Sunday, January 24, 2010

Baby Got Bisque

Last time I made a dish with lobster, my friend, who hates having her name mentioned online so let's call her Aphrodite, suggested that I should keep the shells and boil them to create a lobster stock. Not a bad idea, Aphrodite.

Flash forward to today: a cold, rainy Seattle day. I knew I was going to spend two hours of it outside playing soccer, so the thought of coming home to a rich, warm soup held no small allure. Last evening, I'd served broiled lobster tail to a friend and had put the empty shells into the refrigerator. This morning, I put 10 cups of water and a bay leaf into a deep Magnalite kettle, brought it to a boil, dropped in the shells and covered the kettle. I reduced the heat and simmered them for five hours, reducing the total liquid volume by some two cups.

I had only two guests coming this evening so I reserved four cups of the broth and froze it.

Moving on, I set the remaining broth aside and diced finely two large shallots, bringing me to tears the likes of which I had never shed for any previous event in my life. Attention bioscience industry: invent a tear-free shallot. Thank you.

I put half a cup of butter in a large skillet, melted it and threw in the shallots. Once they were generally clear, I added eight tablespoons of whole wheat bread flour, whisking it for five minutes on medium heat. To this, I added two cups of half-and-half, stirring until it was significantly thickened. Next I added two cups of sherry (NOT cooking sherry) and stirred for 10 minutes. Finally I added four cups of lobster broth, stirring for 10 more minutes, on medium heat (maintaining a slight bubbling, nothing eventful).

Then I added a large true cod filet, in 1/2 inch cubes, and 1/2 pound of medium size shrimp. Finally, I added one tablespoon of Old Bay seasoning, whisked that in thoroughly, and let it cook very low temperature for 20 minutes.

At this point, it was ready to serve. As garnish, I briefly boiled a spiced crawfish and set it in the middle of the bowl of bisque, adding freshly chopped chives as an additional garnish. At table we had crusty French baguette and butter for dredging in the liquid.

There are easier soups to make, but Aphrodite was right -- few are as good as those made with a lobster broth. And fewer still are as richly rewarding as a seafood bisque as Massive Attack plays on the stereo and rain flicks at the windows.

Sunday, January 17, 2010

Get Stuffed

There's a saying that one should always count as a friend at least one doctor and one lawyer. Anyone pursuing a life of food would be wise to add an additional profession to their mix of friends...a farmer.

I'm pleased to say that my pal Steve ticks this box for me. Steve and some friends have a farm down in Olympia, Washington, on which they raise a wide variety of produce and livestock. Steve recently presented me with the world's largest roasting chicken -- weighing in cleaned and thawed at more than seven pounds.

But what he also shared was truly interesting: homemade goose chorizo. It didn't take long for me to decide to create a stuffing from the chorizo and roast it inside a chicken (in this case, a smaller one due to the smaller number of guests dining).

I prepared a simple bread stuffing, adding cracked hazelnuts and sultanas, and then about a quarter pound of the goose chorizo. I mixed it up with my hands and stuffed the chicken cavity fully with it.

Two-and-a-half hours later, a golden-skinned chicken was ready to eat, with sides of roasted multi-color baby potatoes and they wonderful stuffing, courtesy of Farmer Steve!

What's your favorite variation of a simple stuffing? Tell me about it in the comments below.

Favorite Diners

Meet Isaac (left) and Alex! This delightful couple was married this past summer on July 18, 2009, and had the incredible courage to invite me to their wedding (knowing I could have single-handedly doubled the Champagne cost). They've been friends of mine for a long time, both on the soccer pitch and off.

Alex works in Uzbekistan and is over on one of his regular leaves. Isaac lives here in Seattle and works in healthcare. I think Isaac needs to be invited to more dinners so we can be sure he's well fed and energized for Alex's visits.

Thanks for coming to dinner, you two!

Irwin Allen Presents...

Those of us at a certain age will remember that Irwin Allen was a famous producer/director of disaster films. The Towering Inferno, Earthquake and The Poseidon Adventure were but a few of the highlights from his impressive oeuvre.

The cooking and dining experience can also be fraught with disasters (even if they don't involve quite as much as an immolating skyscraper, car-eating cracks in the earth or Shelly Winters climbing an upended Christmas tree). Witness the above: a gorgeous chicken molé in a somewhat ungorgeous condition. I'd just switched off the burner under the Dutch oven -- or so I thought -- and was asking everyone to take their places at table.

Next came a terrific explosion and sound of crashing glass. I was absolutely convinced that someone had just fired a bullet into the house and hit the stove. In a second, though, I realized that the Dutch oven had burst and the molé was smoking and bubbling on a red-hot burner.

I hadn't turned the burner off. I'd turned it to "high."

As a host, one must exhibit a high level of aplomb. Thus, I calmed my guests quickly, told them to please be seated, and set about rescuing enough of the chicken and molé to feed my guests. Luckily, I was able to scrounge enough to provide a satisfactory entrée to each diner -- without any ceramic crunchies!

Last night, disaster struck again. As my guests and I were conversing, a loud crack sped to our eardrums from the top of the living room of the candles atop it had shifted in its candlestick and come to land against the wall, seriously singeing it and then falling to the shelf below.

Again, calmness prevailed. Even with the wall afire, one must not alarm one's guests. The blaze was immediately extinguished and it was time for the rosemary-red wine sorbet.

If these things come in threes, I'm in trouble...

What's your worst dining disaster (short of a fallen soufflé!)? Tell me about it in the comments...

Monday, January 4, 2010

Soup Season

Cold, snow, rain, darkness at 4PM...all great reasons for the consumption of soup!

One of the easiest things to create, soups can also harness all sorts of innovations (boiled lobster or shrimp shells to create a broth, silky tofu as a creamy alternative to fatty milk, the amazing varieties of Vietnamese pho) and styles (bisques, stews, chilled soups). It's safe to say you can turn pretty much anything in your kitchen into a soup, if you're creative enough!

I tried one of Chef Dan Orr's FARMfood recipes last night: Broccoli and basil soup with soy. It was a delicious solution to my ridiculous recent over purchase of four heads of broccoli! I probably should have passed the soup through my finest mesh sieve for a more finished texture and appearance but I'm a peasant and like my soups chunky when it makes sense to make them so. Thus my version of the dish, seen above. I powdered the bowl rim with a little paprika for some color, mindful not to get much of it in the soup itself...

What's your favorite soup? Tell me about it in the comments!

Saturday, January 2, 2010

2010: Dinner #1

Sometimes dinners take on a life bigger than the food, bigger than the milieu; these are dinners where the sum of the parts is greater than the whole. Tonight was such a night: my guests were amazing, the wine exceeded expectations and, yeah, the food stepped up. I'm well pleased.

Herewith, a recollection of the evening...


Above is a shot of the pre-plated amouse bouches: smoked Scotch salmon, creme fraiche, chopped chives and paddlefish caviar (background) and the dessert: blackberries in allspice/cinnamon/powdered sugar topped with butter and fast Irish oats. I like to prep and preplate as much as possible so I can enjoy time with my guests. If I did everything in real time I'd never have a moment with them, defeating the very purpose of a dinner party.


I chose a central floral theme of alstroemeria, on account of their color, size and simplicity. Petal for petal, they create mass and function beautifully as single blooms in the bud vases by the place cards. The remainder of the setting is consistent with all my previous dinners with the exception of the new decanter to the left of the main vase.


Here's a typical timing sheet I do for multi-course dinners and gatherings with multi-faceted operations. I recommend creating a run of show, working back from the time your guests arrive to incorporate the various actions one must take before the doorbell rings. At the very least, this keeps you from being overwhelmed by executing everything at the last minute.


The horses are on the track.


Saffron is a sensual spice. It creates an experience both in the nose and on the palate. Combined with various Gruyéres and lobster takes it another plane entirely. I'd add more lobster to this (one tail per serving) and it would make a glorious main course.


Center cut filets mignon sided with steamed green beans and thick, hand-cut bacon. That's a disc of Stilton butter on the filet, laid on from the ramekin.


Missing from this cork collage are the Bollinger and the Perrier Jouet Fleur de Champagne. The educated will thrill, the clueless should Google.

This is me.

This is His Grace Lord Alex of Windows.

This is Jared. His eyes are naturally that way.

Say hello to Josh. He's our ginger prince. His carpet doesn't match his drapes.


Here's Ross. He's an icon.

And thus endeth the dinner. Beautiful food for beautiful people -- that's our brand promise.

Happy New Year!

Friday, January 1, 2010


And we're back!

Sorry for the fits and starts...what happened was I had taken so many pictures of meals and then did not have time to post about everything so the more behind I got, the more frustrated I became and pretty soon I just was paralyzed!

But I think I have figured out the right level of time to devote to the blog, as well as having a heart-to-heart with myself about my commitment to the blog. We're all sorted now, and ready to roll.

Tomorrow, Saturday, January 2, 2010, will be my first dinner party of the new year and I am so excited. Here's what's tentatively on the menu (the chef reserves the right to change his mind at any time!)...


Truffle mousse paté



Feta-stuffed mini red peppers

Bollinger Grande Année Brut Champagne 1999


Shaved smoked salmon

Crème fraiche

Chopped chives

Spoonbill caviar

Perrier-Jouet Fleur de Champagne 1998


Saffron-Lobster Macaroni & Cheese

2006 Domaine Phillipe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Chenevottes"


Rosemary Sorbet


Filet Mignon with bleu cheese butter

Green beans with bacon and sultanas

Cain Five 2004

Artemis 2004





Dessert wine TBD